Chirripo —Costa Rica’s highest peak hiking adventure
After exploring three mountains above 14,000 ft in the Rocky Mountains National Park, I figured that I was physically ready and it was fair enough that I explored Chirripo National Park, the highest peak of Costa Rica, with an elevation of 3,820 meters (12,533 feet) over sea level within the Talamanca Mountain Range.
It is suggested that you stay at least a couple days overnight, and complete this exploration in four days —arrive the day prior, a day for the ascent, a day for exploration, a day for the descent—considering that once you get to the mountain camp, there are a few summits and areas to wander, however due to the availability of the dates that I was hoping to visit, I did this adventure in one night, two days and focused on getting to the highest elevation.
This is a moderate to difficult hike of about 13km (8.08 miles) one way to the base camp Crestones and then there’s 5km (3.1 miles) you will additionally need to cover to get to the Chirripo’s actual summit.
Now, throughout the years I have been hearing stories and recommendations of how you should do this trip, and although this is no walk in the park and you do need to prepare yourself appropriately physically and mentally; I want to tell you that this is totally doable and such an amazing experience. You do not need a lot of equipment or spend a lot of money.
Here are a few steps you need to complete to guarantee a smooth visit to one of the most interesting National Parks in Costa Rica.
Availability & Entry.
It is important to do your reservations to the park in advance as availability is limited, especially if you are staying overnight (which you should).
The first thing you will need to do is register in the website of the Sistema Nacional de Areas de Conservacion (SINAC) https://www.sinac.go.cr and start an online reservation. There are three routes you can take: San Gerardo, San Jeronimo, and Herradura-Huran.
On this adventure I took San Gerardo, which is the most popular and main route. Also, is the only route that you will not be required to hire a guide. Once you choose your dates you will pay a daily entrance of around 4000 colones per person for residents or 18 US dollars for non-residents. You can reserve up to 4 spots per reservation and you will have to know each person’s full name and identification number at the time of booking.
When you complete payment of your reservation you will receive a confirmation email pointing out the next steps.
Accommodations.
Once you have received an email confirmation by CRC Chirripo stating all the details of your reservation, you will have 5 calendar days to lock in your sleeping arrangements at Crestones Camp. In the confirmation email you will get the amount to pay, a little more than 20,000 colones per person, per night. They will provide the payment method details for you to process a wire transfer —you will not be able to use your credit card. You will have to send your transaction receipt to their email info@chirripo.org; this step will guarantee your accommodations.
Besides the Crestones Camp reservation, you will need to get near the park the day before to do your registry and start early on the day of.
I personally stayed in a hotel I would not recommend, but was convenient in terms of proximity to the trailhead, and I guess it was alright for the purposes of the stay. But there are better options in the area, that are more aligned with my style that I will definitely want to try next time.
Food & Beverage.
One week prior to your arrival date you should visit www.chirripo.org/alimentacion and checkout the different meal plans available to choose whichever works best for you. You should pay via wire transfer with the bank details provided in the confirmation email, note the options that you have selected and send a transaction receipt to info@chirripo.org
Getting there.
Best way to get there is on your own vehicle, renting a car or hiring a private transfer. The latter one may be the most convenient so that you don’t have to drive yourself back after finishing your hike. Note that descending Chirripo can be as challenging as ascending the mountain. Alternatively, you can opt for staying an additional night to relax after the adventure.
You will be driving towards San Isidro del General and from there is about 8km (4.97 miles) to San Gerardo de Rivas.
Usually the hotel you stay in includes parking, or there are other parking options available if needed.
Registry.
A day prior to your ascent you must visit the administrative office of the park which is open 8am to 12pm and 1pm to 4pm so that you can register, bring your identification or passport and the number of your reservation on hand.
Luggage.
You have the option of sending your luggage by horse so that you don’t have to carry it all the way up, they charge by kilo around 3000 colones.
What to bring?
As in usual mountain adventures you must bring layers, temperatures can get down to 9°C (48 °F) at night, but during the walk it is comfortable due to the sun —if you are traveling in the dry season (which is the best season to visit). Bring a good cold weather jacket, comfortable clothes, beanie and even gloves. Don’t be fooled by Costa Rica’s tropical weather, this mountain is another planet.
Sturdy hiking shoes, the Chirripo is a steep mountain and some parts of the terrain can get difficult. For this, or any other hike, avoid using new shoes.
Comfortable shoes to wear at camp.
Backpack with plenty water, snacks and food.
Cash —will be handy, don’t forget this. Phone signal and card services are limited in the park.
A powerbank, it is not allowed to charge phones or electronics in the camp site. Actually, electricity is cut off at 8pm each night. There is wifi in the dining room of the camp though, so you can get online if you need to, it can be slow and limited.
Headlight, it is recommended that you start the ascend way before the sun rises.
First aid kit
Sites to experience.
Once you get to Crestones Camp there are several main attractions that you can explore and this is why it is recommended to stay at least a couple of nights::
El Cerro Chirripo
Los Crestones
Laguna San Juan
Cerro Ventisqueros
Valle de las Morrenas
La Sabana de los Leones
Lago Ditkevi
Valle de los Conejos
Cerro Terbi
The Quest.
I started the ascent to the mountain at 3.43am of a Friday in January. I walked about 50m (164 ft) from where I was staying into the trailhead; I did this exploration by myself as it was a last minute birthday wish, and I could only find one spot available for my preferred date.
With my headlight, first thing I see in the trailhead, a rugged sign that seemed to be missing the top part, that read: ‘‘For those people whose spiritual needs go beyond the ordinary’’ —and what amazing words to read, I think those of us that like to get lost in the mountains, we do it to eventually to find ourselves, find answers within and connect to nature on a deeper level.
As I went up a couple kilometers I encountered a cow in the middle of the trail, I was a bit confused on what to do —not sure if she was really just chilling, sleeping or hurt—but I hope she was alright.
I continued my way in the dark until the first hues of pink came out in the sky, stating that it was almost dawn. By now, I found a sign that tells me that I am officially getting into the park, Ive hiked for almost 5km (3.11 miles) since I stepped out of the hotel. 2 more kms into the hike, I got to half of the journey, Llano Bonito. Here you can find a little soda/restaurant/convenience store if you would like to buy a snack or use the bathroom. Please note that they only accept cash since there is no signal of any kind at this point. You don’t want to stop for long since you need to keep warm for La Cuesta del Agua, which is a steep part of the hike right after this point, where it does start getting physically demanding.
Steady into kilometer number 9, I stopped to get a gallo pinto burrito, juice and some water that I took from the hotel. The views of the mountains, the green and the lush started to get amazing. The plants around are really exotic and unique. After a few more kilometers, you could see Los Crestones —the famous rock formations of the park— peeking magnificently, letting me know that I am almost there.
Finally, I get to La Cuesta de los Arrepentidos that translates to The Slope of the Repentants, and its name really talks for itself. However, this means that we are only 1.5km (0.93 miles) from reaching the Base Crestones camp. The scenery is truly mesmerizing and it almost feels like you are in a different planet. The vibe is something else up there.
I completed the hike in 6 hours, which is a very good time. The average person with no significant training could do the hike in around 9 hours. Here, I checked in, retrieved my luggage and got the key for my dorm. The facilities are well kept and I felt very comfortable. Beds were clean and linens well maintained. Surprisingly, they very comfortable and warm. The only real challenge I faced were was the freezing water showers in cold weather.
It was midday, so it was time to rest and let the sun go down a bit to continue the adventure onto Los Crestones, a 5km (3.11 miles) hike. This one was a bit confusing since the trails weren’t clearly marked, but I was able to make it in time for the sunset. I got back to the camp, had a lovely plant based dinner and retired to sleep as next day the summit awaited, and I planned to start walking before dawn.
Even though I was traveling alone, you should never try to do this trails by yourself as it can be dangerous. You must always respect the mountain and never ever put yourself (or others) at risk for trying to be brave or pushing yourself way too much.
When I was there, all of the other fellow hikers were very friendly, and we all started talking to each other during dinner time. I was able to meet other solo travelers to make the hike with. Also, there were guided groups leaving at the same time so I was never really by myself.
I talked to one of my roommates —that came from the Netherlands, who was traveling solo as well—and we decided to be hiking partners for the final ascent. We started the final journey at 2am so that we were able to enjoy the sunrise at the top; unknowingly we chose the best company for the ride since we both actually walked fast and quickly left behind all of the other groups that started slightly earlier than us.
Last part of the journey takes some scrambling, and although it really wasn't very technical, my fears to heights sometimes take over me, this being a deal breaker. We got right to the rocks base but it was very foggy, we both tried to see if we could make our way up, but visibility was too limited. I was not going to risk it so we decided to stay there until dawn and wait until some light was shed on the way.
While waiting, it was the only time I really doubted my reasons for being there since cold was really getting into my bones. As we stood there, groups started to catch up with us and we met a family that had been there more times than you could count with both hands; they offered blankets, whisky and good conversation. When the sun started rising we found our way and kept on going. I basically mirrored whatever the person in front of me was doing when climbing the rocks and so we made it to the top. Unfortunately, it was cloudy and the view wasn’t appreciated in the way that I would have liked to, but still, the summit was rewarding, emotional and everything I wished for.
